PS Wall Panels Installation – Step by Step (Text Version): Follow Along Without the Video

Videos can move fast. Here’s the same installation process broken down into clear steps. Read through once, then work through each step with your tools ready and wall prepared.

Tools You’ll Need

• PS wall panels (buy 10% extra for waste)
• Neutral silicone adhesive (must be neutral – acidic will damage the panels)
• Caulking gun
• Utility knife (fresh blade)
• Straight edge or tape measure
• Spirit level (a level app on your phone works too)
• Painter’s tape
• Pencil
• Clean cloth
• Bank card or dedicated spacers (for consistent gaps)
• Patching compound (if the wall has holes)
• Hole saw or utility knife (for outlet cutouts)
• Rubber mallet (optional)

Step 1: Prepare the Wall

What to do – Clean and smooth the wall.

How:

Wipe off dust and grease with a damp cloth. Let it dry.

Remove old wallpaper and scrape off leftover glue.

Scrape off loose paint.

Fill nail holes and small dents with patching compound. Once dry, sand smooth.

Note – You don’t need to sand as smooth as for painting, but there should be no obvious bumps or deep hollows. Uneven walls will show through thin panels.

Step 2: Dry Layout

What to do – Lay the panels on the floor in the order you plan to install them.

How:

• Arrange the panels in your desired order.
• Check that the wood grain direction is consistent (if your pattern has direction).
• See if the cut pieces at the ends will work.
• Mark the positions of outlets and switches.

Why it matters – Once adhesive is applied, you can’t easily reorder panels. Testing the layout first saves mistakes.

Step 3: Cut the Panels

What to do – Cut panels to your wall dimensions.

How:

• Measure and draw a cut line on the back of the panel with a pencil.
• Hold a straight edge firmly on the line. Score with a utility knife 3–5 times (moderate pressure).
• Turn the panel back-side up, align the score line with the edge of a table. Hold one side down, press the overhanging side down – the panel will snap cleanly along the line.
• Lightly sand rough edges.

Note – Change the blade when it dulls, otherwise edges will be fuzzy. For outlet holes, cut slightly smaller than the back box (about 5mm extra) and trim carefully. A hole saw on a drill is much faster and cleaner.

Step 4: Apply Adhesive

What to do – Apply neutral silicone to the back of the panel.

How:

• Load the adhesive into the caulking gun, cut the nozzle tip at a 45-degree angle.
• Apply in dotsor an S-curve.

Dots: each about 2–3cm in diameter, spaced 20–30cm apart. About 8–10 dots per standard panel.

S-curve: two continuous lines about 5cm from the edges.

• Leave a 2–3cm margin around the edgesto prevent squeeze-out.

Note – Don’t spread adhesive over the whole back – too much will ooze out and be hard to clean. Too little will not hold.

Step 5: Mount the Panel

What to do – Press the panel onto the wall.

How:

• Start from the bottom, work left to right.
• The first panel is critical. Press it onto the wall, then gently shift it side to side to spread the adhesive.
• Check for level (horizontal or vertical depending on your layout) with a spirit level. Adjust before pressing firmly.
• Slide a bank card or spacer between panels as you go – leave a 1–2mm gap.

Note – You can peel off and reposition within 20 minutes. After that, the adhesive begins to set – forcing it may damage the panel.

Step 6: Secure with Tape

What to do – Use painter’s tape to hold panels in place while the adhesive cures.

How:

• Apply painter’s tape around the edges of each panel and pull it tight.
• Use at least two strips per edge – add more for large panels.
• Tape must be stuck to the adjacent wall or to neighboring panels, not just to the panel itself.

Note – Do not leave tape on for more than 72 hours or it may leave residue. 24–48 hours is ideal.

Step 7: Clean Squeezed-Out Adhesive

What to do – Wipe off excess adhesive before it dries.

How:

• Right after mounting each panel, use a damp cloth to wipe away adhesive that oozed from the gaps.
• If adhesive has partially dried, rub gently with an eraser.
• If fully dried, carefully scrape with a plastic scraper – never use a metal blade

Step 8: Cut Outlet Holes (if not done earlier)

What to do – If you didn’t pre-cut holes, cut them after mounting.

How:

• Mark the outline of the back box on the panel surface with a pencil.
• Cut just inside the line with a utility knife or hole saw.
• Start small and enlarge carefully.
• Imperfect edges will be covered by the outlet cover plate.

Note – Cutting holes before mounting is much easier. Strongly recommended.

Step 9: Let the Adhesive Cure

What to do – Wait for the adhesive to fully set.

How:

• Leave the tape in place for at least 24 hours.
• In winter or humid weather, wait 48 hours.
• Do not touch, wash, or hang anything on the panels during this time.
• Normal room ventilation is fine, but do not aim a fan directly at the panels.

How to know it’s ready – Press a panel edge with your finger. No movement and no soft spot means it’s cured.

Step 10: Inspect and Finish

What to do – Remove tape, check for issues, and add final touches.

How:

• Remove painter’s tape.
• Tap each panel lightly with your finger – listen for hollow sounds. If you hear a drum-like sound, inject neutral silicone through the edge gap using a syringe, then press flat and retape.
• Check panel gaps. If uneven, fill with matching silicone or cover with edge trim.
• Install corner trims on outside corners. Fill inside corners with matching adhesive.
• Wipe all panels with a damp cloth to remove dust and fingerprints.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q1: Where is your factory located?
A: No. 10-1 Lianhong Road, Yuanhua Town, Haining City, Zhejiang Province, China.

Q2: My wall is uneven. Can I still install directly?
If the height difference is within 2–3mm, neutral silicone can fill it. If it’s more than 5mm, level the wall with patching compound or plaster first. Otherwise, thin panels will follow the unevenness and look wavy.

Q3: How much adhesive should I use per panel?
For a standard panel (2400×600mm): 8–10 dots, each about the size of a coin. Or two continuous S-curves. After pressing, you should feel even adhesive distribution.

Q4: Painter’s tape pulled off some of the panel surface. What now?
Tape left on for more than a week can bond too strongly. If it pulls off the top layer, lightly sand with fine sandpaper (1000 grit) and touch up with a furniture repair pen. For severe damage, replace the panel. Best to remove tape within 24–48 hours.

Q5: After installation, I see one panel is a different color. Can I replace it?
Yes. Use a heat gun or hair dryer (hot setting) on the panel for 30 seconds to soften the adhesive. Carefully peel it off, clean the old adhesive, and stick a new panel. Note that new and old panels may have slight batch differences – always keep 1–2 spare panels from the same batch.

Q6: Do you have a video? I’d prefer to watch while I work.
Yes. Contact us and we’ll send you a high-definition installation video. The video is easier to follow; this text version is for reference and details.